Loewe, The New Woman

The F/W 2015 Loewe collection revisits the woman introduced last season, adding functional pieces for a different facet of her life, a moment of realistic futurism. A science-inspired aesthetic is shot through with everyday elements for a pragmatic, decidedly modern character.

Silhouette is fluid and columnar, epitomised by wide herringbone trousers and accentuated with structured and graphic elements. Materials encompass a variety of leather, maximising house knowledge and craftsmanship to construct garments that are of this moment in cut, touch and look.

J.W Anderson returned with his unique propensity for exploring the tension between the complementary and contradictory – proving that there’s no room for monotony where he’s concerned.

With big shapes, colours and textures from metallic pleated skirts, to lilac leather jackets, wide herringbone trousers and red patent leather everything, Jonathan Anderson explained that the collection, ‘had to be scientific – something that felt new.’

Primary colours of red and blue were paired against pale lilacs, mint greens and dusky camel tones. Trousers came wide, necklines were high with polo necks seen poking out of ballooned bomber jackets and sleeves were long. Blue suede or brown leather knee boots finished off the looks, not forgetting that nearly everything came with an oversized, looped leather belt. Yes, the 80´s are back, like David Bowie or Terminator. 

This is Loewe so of course it is about the bags, and this was a strong, covetable collection. Continuing on the origami shape of the puzzle bag came down the runway with clean lines, meanwhile there was an array of large clutch bags with contrasting colourful straps, red patent leather ladylike clutches and these adorable bow purse bags.