Artworks that represent fashion in the age of technology: Manus x Machina. The Metropolitan Museum of New York City has one of the best displays of costume right now. For its dresses of course, for its location also, but the mounting deserves special mention. Like a bubble, go into this space it’s a kind of time warp with the most important designers in the world: Karl Lagerfeld , Iris Van Herpen , Louis Vuitton, Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, among many others.
With more than 170 ensembles dating from the early 20th century to the present, the exhibition will address the founding of the haute couture in the 19th century, when the sewing machine was invented, and the emergence of a distinction between the hand (manus) and the machine (machina) at the onset of mass production.
The Robert Lehman Wing galleries on the Museum’s first floor and ground level will present a series of case studies to unravel the hand/machine conundrum. At the center will be an installation of toiles and prototypes presented as garments in the making or «monuments to ideas.»
Emanating from this presentation will be a series of rooms based on traditional métiers of the haute couture, including embroidery, featherwork, artificial flowers, pleating, lacework, and leatherwork, which will be presented alongside versions that incorporate innovative processes, such as 3D printing, computer modeling, bonding and laminating, laser cutting, and ultrasonic welding.
A room dedicated to the ateliers of tailoring and dressmaking will reflect the traditional division of a maison de couture. At the same time, Brian Eno and his song “Music for the Airports” will sound gently. His notes are perfect, just like the star of the show: The wedding dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. A stunning silk dress finished machine. During the first week, thousands of people have visited the sample and the success is absolute.
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