Design Made in Spain Explores New Commercial Avenues
Taking the creative helm at department stores, injecting democracy into the wardrobe with a second line and creating temporary partnerships are some of the new approaches to design.
Juanjo Oliva showcased twenty-five outfits at MBFW Madrid in September. The colourfully seductive dresses of the designer’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection were shot through with his DNA. Nothing unusual about that, perhaps, except that none of these dresses cost more than €200. Madrid was witnessing one of the most prolific partnerships between industry and design with the designer’s ninth collection for El Corte Inglés brand Elogy.
In this win-win strategy, design becomes industry, boosting sales and salience. It’s an approach also adopted by Trucco to celebrate its thirtieth anniversary. Emulating the strategy of big fashion chains, the womenswear brand presented its special-edition collection Kiss, in partnership with Nicolás Vaudelet who created four high-end looks to take sophistication off the catwalk and out into the street, at prices under €130.
But back to the Madrid runway, where Juanjo Oliva and El Corte Inglés is not the only successful partnership spawned. Accessories seem to be ideal terrain for association to guarantee success. For Spring/Summer 2016, Ana Locking’s romantic silhouettes are teaming up with Acosta by Ana Locking, in her third capsule collection for the leather goods brand. Designer Maya Hansen has also transformed her universe into Oxford and salon shoes in a tropical goth spirit for Myblüchers. Likewise, Ion Fiz and Ulises Mérida have looked to footwear in lines for Custom and Chic and Miss García.
Juan Vidal adopted a different approach to get the industrial machinery into gear. Last summer, the young designer launched Mygirls, a younger, more democratic capsule collection showcased only on the web. He has some more teamwork up his sleeve and is set to launch Pale by Juan Vidal for Pale Swimwear in the spring.
For little sisters, Lemoniez has adapted the concept with Señorita Lemoniez, a mini-sized Sixties’ wardrobe. Amaya Arzuaga turned around this strategy when she launched bespoke service AA, made only to measure. Other methods include special editions created by two brand partners. After its association with Naguisa last spring, Zubi has looked to Peseta this Christmas, combining its signature prints with Peseta’s hand-finished detail in a series of wallets. So it’s officially confirmed: two’s definitely company in the fashion industry, which is making all the right connections to get its engines going.