Savile Row: Who’s Who

One of the many attractions of London is the magic that holds this little street of Mayfair.

Some «lightly» qualify clothes made here as synonymous with unchanging classic, timeless, to say outside these times. Nothing is further from the real meanings of both words and much less of reality.

Savile Row Bespoke. Bentley Collection.

Men’s fashion is created in Savile Row, it has been doing so for centuries. Not surprisingly, most of the male wardrobe pieces were born here as the dinner jacket or tuxedo, three-piece suit, «brogues» shoes, stamped ties or raicoat (gabardine).

Dinner Jacket Henry Poole and Hardy Amies «Brogues» shoes .

Henry Poole was the first tailor established in Savile Row. Its success was such that led him to open branches including several cities in Europe and had an effect called for other tailors who also opened on the same street. He was the creator of the dinner jacket for the Prince of Wales at that time -1866- who later reigned as Edward VII.

Not only many clothing have  born in Savile Row, also have formed unquestionable tailors and designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.

Article that talks about the collection that Alexander McQueen launched for Huntsman with Terry Haste.

In this street are dressed the most powerful men in the world and even some women, because although the firms have very clear that their main line of business is men’s fashion, many have a second line of bespoke for ladies .

Today some of the firms belong to Asian business groups, as Gieves & Hawkes from their workshops was the uniform with Prince Charles married Lady Diana or Hardy Amies both are owned by the Fung family of Hong Kong.

El uniforme con el
Wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana.

If the business groups of this size is so deeply interested in the firms of Savile Row is not simply a romantic, aesthetic or snob idea. CFOs only authorized a budget to the general manager who is determined to take forward the idea of acquiring a pair of suits.

Considering that one of this suits costs an average of 2.500.00 pounds sterling but Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh Prince still many who did it when he was 36 years out more than profitable gratification or bonus. The sales figures of Savile Row have increased even during the hardest years of blissful crisis. Only in 2011 they were billed 10% more than previous years and that the pre-crisis.

Richard Anderson, Denim jacket and Japanese jeans.

Tommy Nutter,  Chittleborough Roy and Joe Morgan, along with Edward Sexton, were the ones who gave life to the glorious creations of Tommy Nutter. When in 1969 the adaptation and the fashion world was changed forever, Tommy gave a revolutionary new energy to Savile Row. With his shoulders individuals, wide lapels, tight pants without pockets, etc. They made the crazy 70s costumes for clients such as Elton John, Mick and Bianca Jagger. John Lennon and the Beatles crossed famous Abbey Road in Nutters suits.

The expert hands of Nutters: Roy Chittleborough & Joe Morgan now weave their magic as his own company in the No.12 of Savile Row. These two are still creating Nutters historical costumes. The style of the house now has a sleeker look quieter but there is still that unmistakable energy of the history of Savile Row.

the Beathles
Beatles crossing Abbey Road in Nutters suits.

Calmer is the choice of Prince Charles of Great Britain that usually choose for his costumes  Norton and Sons or Anderson Sheppard. A short stroll you can reach Jermyn Street where is Turnbull and Asser along with Budd (at Picadilly Arcade) are his favorite shirts. Huntsman is an institution have even a polo team competing in Abu Dhabi and Sotogrande. Among its historical customers he is the very elegant Edward VIII formal morning coats have excellent bespoke you can do even white tie.

Chittleborough &  Morgan. Detalles característicos.
Chittleborough & Morgan. Characteristic details.

Although undoubtedly couture ultimately the bespoke, completely by hand by each of the specialized artisans involved in the different phases of the creation of the different parts such as embroidery eyelets or off the side seams, it remains the standard of these businesses. Some of them are more accessible lines as Hardy Amies, with reaching a wider audience and expand their sales. Hardy Amies was in charge of making all the wardrobe of Elizabeth II after the Second World War, just when she was newcomer to the throne therefore designed a wardrobe look sober and powerful for material and clothing with feminine airs based on a Queen retains style and who unknowingly mimic thousands of women.

Many of the firms have on their website a section of online sales of clothing accessories and even «ready to wear» and does not mean that haute couture is performing at pret a porter but the houses are expanding their lines and thus their turnover.

Hardy Amies Coat and Gabardine. Click to buy

The arrival of Richard James and Ozwald Boateng to Savile Row, with very different styles have attracted a younger audience interested in high fashion that has been faithfully discovering the thousand and one wonders of the traditional British style with a current picture. If it ever was not. For me it is just   an appreciation that stays on the surface and not really delves into the creative part, the maximum high craftsmanship, innovation and anticipation even to modern times in each time and even adapt to them without losing the essence. Is there anything more fashionable than haute couture?

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