Cavalli Wanders?

Cavalli does not find anyone who wants it. At least in the creative direction of one of the most famous Italian fashion firms in the world, thanks to its spectacular silk animal prints. Probably, the 75-year-old Italian designer no longer has the ability – nor the patience – to re-educate a genius who puts himself at the head of the multinational; and its major shareholders, either.

And of course, when there are no meetings, there are disagreements, and these usually translate into a management problem, first, and then sales. Perhaps, for this very reason, the departure in September of Peter Dundas, its creative director, is the less at the moment. Because after several years of ‘mismatch’ with the business model, the new CEO of the firm, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, now has the difficult mission to save 30 million euros in production costs and return to green numbers in 2018. Then two and a half years of cuts, reorganization.

The film Dior and I show how the creative genius faced the financial ability to exhaustion, to conclude that «if there are no sales, there is nothing to do.» Cavalli has spent three years thinking about how to increase them, but nothing seems to convince either the shareholders of the company or the final consumer.

This year, the firm expects to enter 155 million euros, down from 180 million a year ago. The crisis has long been noticeable in the luxury sector, and the fall in Chinese consumption and traditional European customers, coupled with falling oil prices, have not been offset by necessary purchases in Russia and the United States. So, to great evils, great remedies. To begin, reorganization of personnel and dismissal of 200 employees. Afterward, transfer of headquarters to Osmannoro and closure of unprofitable stores.

Just a week ago, Salvador Tous, founder of the well-known jewelry firm, said in New York that a big brand could only have three or four stores in the world as a showcase, the rest have to make money or at least not to lose. We will see if the Italian firm, its shareholders and its creator can reinvent without dying in the attempt.