It is a real topic of fashion research. Vanessa Friedman (2014) opens a journal in NYT with this sentence “It’s a big day for Green Fashion on both sides of the Atlantic!”
About Kering, “is unveiling a partnership with the Center for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion. Kering’s chief executive — about the importance of building a sustainable fashion business, a sustainable fashion award for two students every year, and the development of academic courses on the subject”.
The Center for Sustainable Fashion and Kering partnership will be made up of three main projects:
According to Vanessa Friedman (2014), “In New York, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Lexus are also unveiling the winners of its $75,000 first prize and two $5,000 second prizes for the C.F.D.A./Lexus Eco-Fashion challenge, now in its fifth year”.
About both initiatives, aside from the big luxury brands to the whole concept of sustainable design, is the fact that they are focused on the next generation of design executives (creative and otherwise). There’s clearly a sense among the fashion establishment that this is a meaningful concern for those on the way up. Designers and consumers. Besides, for large companies or industry groups seeking to build ties with their future talent pool, evincing support for their value systems is not a bad way to build a relationship.
According the sponsors engagement marketing manager for Lexus, have said: “Kering and L.C.F. share the belief that sustainability is instrumental to the fashion industry’s evolution. Both are also committed to nurturing young talents to fuel today’s fast-growing fashion”, “We want to create a relevant conversation around the subject of sustainable design and luxury, and the fact the two can go together. And we want to support the idea that this can be the foundation of a real business, and help them to grow”.
Pointedly, however, the one area where neither group has really stepped forward is in offering an actual concrete definition of what “sustainable fashion” means. They are very interesting, the following guidelines for applicants that included for C.F.D.A./Lexus:
“Fall/Winter 2015 collection should contain no less than 30 percent “eco” fabrics or materials, (or 30 percent of line should be eco). Eco production should also be addressed, if applicable. Applications will be judged on the following: dedication to ecologically responsible and sustainable design and production (30 percent of overall score), ability to inspire an “eco” attitude in consumers and the community (20 percent of overall score), originality and creativity (20 percent of overall score) and presence of “eco” fabrics and materials (30 percent of overall score”).
In Spain we have Ecoalf. It was born in 2009. Themselves’ says: Javier Goyeneche, founder of brand, explains: “The idea was to create a fashion brand that is truly sustainable. The concept arose of my frustration with the excessive use of the world’s natural resources and the amount of waste produced by industrialized countries. It appeared to me that the way to do so was by stop using our planet’s natural resources in a careless way (all studies showed that we are presently using 5 times more natural resources than the planet is able to auto-generate)”.
The problem was that when we sourced the market for recycled materials the offer was small and of very poor quality. Most fabrics only contained a very small percentage of recycled material (15-20%). According to Javier Goyeneche “I found the need to start creating partnerships with factories in order to develop fabrics, lining, straps, labels and cords using recycled materials”.
He has travel the world to identify the ideal manufacturing resources, we carefully built the foundation that would become Ecoalf. Through integrating breakthrough technology we wanted to create clothing and accessories made entirely from recycled materials…without actually looking like it.
Fishing nets, plastic bottles, worn-out tires, post-industrial cotton, and even used coffee grinds become outerwear, swimsuits, sneakers and accesories. Ecoalf symbolizes what I believe the fabrics and products of the new generations should be. Their “Manifiesto” is Tras(h)umanity. I have seleted some concepts:
Explains Javier Goyeneche, president and founder «Ecoalf The name comes from the initials of my son Alfredo». For once the heart of sustainability is on the person, this is the best this brand.
Documentary sources:
Friedman, V. (2014). The Greening of Fashion’s Next Generation. Recuperado el 3 de noviembre de 2014 desde http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/author/vanessa-friedman/?_r=0. Rieradevall, J. (2014). Ecodiseño estrategia clave para la ecoinnovación de productos y servicios. Teoría Y Práxis Investigativa, 9(2), 8–15. Rieradevall, J., & Vinyets, J. (1999). Ecodiseño y Ecoproductos. Barcelona: Rubes Departament de Medi Ambient de la Generalitat de Catalunya.
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