Chanel Always Haute Couture
Better the Haute than de Ready-to Wear sporty-terrible-look
Tropical blooms were bursting on Chanel’s spring/summer 2015 haute couture catwalk. Inside the vast Grand Palais space a rather intimate hot house had been erected and was the home to a white paper garden filled with dormant flora. But thanks to a very handsome green-thumbed gardener in a broad-brimmed hat who, with his trusty watering can, walked around the central arrangement sprinkling the set with invisible H2O, the flower bed finally opened into vibrant exotic blooms.
The outfits were accessorized with wide-rimmed tulle hats, floral beanies, flat leather sock-boots, veils and more. Trust Karl to give haute couture twist to the beanies and he was inspired to make a couture version as he sees everybody wearing them. This genus of eccentricity begins with a flat, narrow leather sock-boot, painstakingly styled to wrinkle artfully round the shins and works its way up through a succession of embellished skirts. Some of these skirts were long and narrow, with tulle inserts; others short and fringed.
Others still were bell-shaped and stiff, embellished with layers of silk flowers and what looked like tiny Chinese lanterns. Navels were often exposed – but not always, because as ever, there were myriad jackets in all shapes and lengths. Also present: the Chanel little black dress, rustled up from slivers of pleated chiffon and banded organza. A palette of pinks, oranges, reds, electric blue, pollen yellow, sap green, blacks and whites adorn the gentle, curved lines of the silhouettes.
The jackets are short, the waist is dropped, skirts are full and pencil-cut skimming the ankles or flared above the knee. Veiled in vast wide-brimmed hats, diaphanous as clouds, or hats with little veils, these young girls walk the runway in black leather shoe-boots. “The waist is the new cleavage!”, affirms Karl Lagerfeld.
For the day, tweed jackets with ¾ length sleeves, rounded shoulders and wide necklines are worn with dresses and full skirts. Others in woven tweed reveal the waist and hint at the hips. The pencil skirts and the woven, fringed chiffon dresses are coupled with short blouses and long ethereal coats belted with leather. For the evening, flowers embroidered from tulle, leather, organza and rhodoid petals with beaded pistils explode over entirely sequinned skirts and coats. Long skirts are worn with short tops with Peter Pan and lavallière collars or with delicate pleated blouses while others swathed in feathers are worn with fluid flower-embroidered bustiers, and the finale: “They’re flowers that don’t exist, it’s a vision of an earthly paradise, an imaginary greenhouse”, Karl Lagerfeld explains.
A vision which concluded with the in white sequins worn over a voluminous skirt with a train embroidered entirely with organza flowers. Make Up: The new Spring Chanel Collection: pink is the color of the Spring.